It was cold, and river is wide like Bosphorus, calm like a sand. We boarded one of the boat, it is pure aluminium boat, and was going really fast, approximately 30-40 knot.
Time to time, river is getting narrow, most of the time it is going very wide, rarely, boar is getting slower, then I realised that, captain was trying to see river banks, and routing boat to deep channels.
On the way, when I am looking river sides, only thing I was seeing is trees in different colours, green-red-brown-light green even blue leafs, endless riverside, and thousands or may be millions of trees. Some times, fallen trees lying down on the river, i could not stop myself to think about business opportunities or value of these threes, it was all waste for Russia. As I understand, there are millions trees were in there, and country was not seeing these resources more valuable than gas or petroleum business. Another think, I was thinking is cheap paints which almost all families hanged on their walls. In reality, cheap or not, does not matter. What i mean is paints like forest, river, mountains. And there is always red trees in these pains, and i was always thinking, what a silly-stupid thing to put red leafs on threes, supposed that there is no red leafs on trees!!!!
These trees were exist, and i saw it during my 8 hours boat trip 🙂 It is real!! Red leafs and 8 hours boat trip at 40knot speed to North, deeper Siberia.
On the way, we gave one stop, some kind of a civilisation, former Soviet forest ranger, now arranging tours for visitors. And there was a Shaman who met with Shatalov a year ago. Shatalov asked me to take the plastic bag out, then I understand why i carried this terrible thing all the way: gift to Shaman for getting his best wishes 🙂 After a short break, ate chicken and rice, then additional 4 hours, river-river-forest-forest, time to time, some other boats with native Siberians.
Then we arrived the base which is kind of a dock stating on the river, chained to some trees on riverside. One big gathering room, like diner, and small rooms (5-6) each for two, 3-4 native Siberian hosts, one dog and small power boats (8-9) for two fisherman :0
After 10 hours drive from Igrim, one of the native said that in all directions, 400KM, there is no civilisation means village.
It was completely tundra-steps or Siberian forest. Wild animals were Bears and Wolves.Getting in to forest from the riverside was forbidden and dangerous during the day, during the night, staying on the riverside was not allowed. No cellular, only Iridium was working during certain hours accordingly the position of the satellite (21:00-23:15). After the meal, immediately went in to bed and had amazing sleep.
One remarkable thing was sleeps, nights and early bird wake ups. It must be related to environment, clean-fresh air and all day activity. Breakfast is smoked fish, for sure you can find something Russian, but i preferred to adapt Smoked Fish which was healthy, delicious. Another thing is carrying knife all the time, and use it for everything.
Fishing is another experience. Every morning and every afternoon, with your buddy, toking one of the boat and going up or down the rive, and trying to find spots for fishing. You must not stay too close to riverside, bears can jump more than 4-5 metres :), and depend on the place, you are changing your fishing methodology. If the place is somewhere bay, must encourage fishes staying at the bottom to attack your hook.Approach must be top-down like your hook is moving like a wounded fish. If the place is open for river stream, you must throw your hook and pull in your hook every 5-6 metres then let it drawn. Targeted fish is aggressive Pike.
Normally Pike is carnivore and taking it up is really challenging. And Pearch is omnivour and it is more easy to hunt.
Btw, only Pearch can be served as smoked. According to natives, smoked fish is not cooking, and all worms and other parasites cannot die under these process because of no real fire. Preach is the only fish has no worm and parasites then it is safe to eat after smoked. Small note, there is stove kind of thing, Natives are using for smoke.
There is a grill where they are putting fishes on and putting this grill on the highest level in stove, and there are special woods (kind of a sponge) are in fire (not a real fire, it is something burning inside, just smoke and very manageable heat is coming out. After applying these to fishes 4-5 hours, then your fishes will be ready for keeping them for long days and weeks. Natives, while they are travelling, getting 4-5 smoked fishes wrapped by newspaper and put it in to their backpacks, like we are having snacks, biscuits or sandwiches.
Coming back to the story: every morning and afternoon, spending 4-5 hours for fishing. When you brought all fishes that you caught on day 1, guys are warning you not to bring them, because their reserves are full, and there is no space to put these new ones. Then upcoming days, what you are doing is catching fish, get the picture of it after weighing it and announcing these info to others teams thru radio and release the fish. if fish is Pearch or Pike, this is what your are doing. Only one fish is very valuable, can eat even raw. People are pointing this fish must be kept, going well with vodka: Russian Sushi.
There was a lake, natives were offering to us for fishing, just 500mt away from the riverside, was another action. Once we say ok, two natives with two rifles each, took us there. When we asked why they are carrying gun, killing bear or Wolf. They just replied, no these were for just creating noise to make Bear or Wolf scared. In case they shoot to bear and not killed successfully, then it would be the nightmare for all of us, more dangerous. Notes from the lake looks like a lake in Central Park. Environment, grass, trees and everything looks like an designer made it, and people working for municipality put them all accordingly.
But interesting, we were in neither London HydePark nor Central Park in NewYork. We ere far away, in the middle of Siberia and view were amazing.
Long story makes it short, difficult to write all details, notes, observations, but Siberia is still untouched, very far, very scary (no one speaks English), very rich. I am still thinking to re-experience it, go there and try more local things. I owe Shatalov for such experience, and suggesting all adventurers and fishermans to go there and try same.
http://avltour.com/severnaya-sosva-river-fishing-tour.html
Alper-2016-Toledo, OHIO