Hala guluyorum, Mehtabin “yo yooo, kislari ayni Istanbul belki biraz daha iyi” demesini. Ne kullaniyorsan, iki cizgide bana hazirlada, kafamiz ayni olsun!!!! hahahahaha IT IS FUCKING -15C!!!! WTF!! :))) Sevdik seni Mehtapcigim ….
Sabah 09:15 de randevumuz vardi doktor ile, zaten aksam Cleveland’dan geldik, eve vardigimizda gece yarisindan sonra 1AM di. Turkiye saati ile 09:00, Clevelan’a giderken de donerkende konustugumuz isler vardi, dolayisi ile Turkiyedekilerin uyanmasi ile konusmalar kaldigi yerden basladi. Uzerine Fatma’nin muduru ile call vardi, US saati ile 3AM’de derken aralarda uyudugum 1 er saat disinda tum gece ayaktaydim. Neyse sabah erkenden kalktik, 7-8 gibi, giyindik ve ciktik evden. O ana kadar uykulu idim, disari cikinca ormanin soguk ve bol oksijenli havasi bir anda uyandirdi beni. Arabaya binerken 4-5 gun oncesinden kalan karlar ayni sekilde duruyordu, araci calistirdim ve gosterge -15C!! Gercek eksi onbes derece. Camlar temiz, arabadaki su donmus, her tarakta kristal netliginde buz ve soguk hava var. Neyse ilk gordugum lastiklerimizn havasinin dusmus oldugu oldu. Elif yakinda bir gas station’a gitmemize soyledi, zaten bir gece evvelden benzinimiz neredeyse dibi bulmustu. Evin yakinlarinda bir BP gas station bulduk. Air kisminin oldugu yere geldik, hersey yolunda gozukuyordu. Arabayi uygun oldugunu dusundugum pozisyonda park edip, cihazin basina gittik. Para atmak icin bir yer, bir iki dugme, uzerinde start, confirm vsvs yaziyor ve hortum vardi. Ben hortumu aldim, Elif bozuk paralari atmaya basladi. Ilk komiklik orda basladi, arabadan cikarken lastik boyutunu ve olmasi gereken basinci okudum arabanin uzerinden: 32PSI. Elife dedimki 32PSI lutfen, ELif ise nereye yazayim dedi. Bakiyoruz, Elif hava basacagini dusundugumuz kurunun etrafinda dort donuyor, bir yerden ulkemizde oldugu gibi “elektronik bir ekrandan” basinci yazacak yer ariyor ama bulamiyor. Ben elimde ki hortumun ucundaki garip seye bakiyorum. Bir yaninda az bir hava cikiyor, bir handle var, basinca hava artiyor. Ey Allahim!!
O esnada cihazi cozmek ne kadar zor bilemezsiniz. Once hotumun ucunu tuttum lastigin sibopune, handle’a bastim, bizim basinc olcme kalemlerindeki gibi bir parca cikti. Ulen nedir bu derken, metal handle’i tutan ellerim sislamaya basladi. Once erkeklige b..k surmeyeyeim dedim, tutmaya devam ettim, sonra elleim yanmaya basladi, yalvardim Elife bir eldiven uzat diye, o sandiki eldivenleri giyecegim, oysaki ellerim donmus ve giyme sansim hic yok, ben sadece bu metal parcayi tutabilmek icin bez olarak kullanacaktim.
3-5 dakikalik aci verici bir saskinliktan sonra olayi anladik, ve hava basmaya basladik, tabi attigimiz paralarin suresi bitti vsvsvsvs. Bu amerika tectubesi, onlar icin cok standart olan ve bizim icin acaip ilkel bir yontem, ulen metal bir olcek uzerinden 33PSI doldurmak, mumkun olmayan tahmini bir is. Neticade lastiklerimin dordunede 33PSI bastigimi dusunurken, sonucu arac paylasiyor, bilgi ekranindan: 36-35-34-34PSI. Eller donmus, bir an evvel kapaklari vidalayip iceri girmek istiyorum, ancak ellerim bunu yapacak gibi degil, Elif yardim ediyor. Lastik macerasi ve sonrasinda yakit aldiktan sonra (30USD ile 20 gallon aliyoruz ve full depo) yola cikiyoruz. Bu sefer baska bir fizik kuralini hatirliyoruz. Sogukken gordumuz lastik basinclari, arac hareket ettikce donen ve isinan lastikler sebebi ile artmaya basliyor: 37-37-37-36. Offf!!!
Sonrasinda Doktorun ofisine geldigimizde 10dk miz var oldugunu gorunce, Elif ekranin basinda, ben lastiklerin basinda hava cikarma ve lastikleri esitleme calismamiz basliyor. Elif icerden komut veriyor, cok hava ver, yavasla, az az az, sindi dur vsvs…Bende denilen komutlari tahmini olarak evin anahtar ucu ile sibopa uyguluyorum. Geldigimiz nokta, 33-33-33-32 :))) Doktor muayenesi sonrasi yola cikiyoruz, lastik basinclari 34-34-35-33. Ne kadar zor bu is…..cokbildiginde cok stress yapiyorsun. Aracin info ekrani detay veriyor, sanki borsada yatirim takibi yapiyoruz, anlik olarak PSI verisi veriyor. ELimizda hava basmaya yarayan olcu, tamamiyla bir metal cubuga cizilmis olan KABA-SABA cizgilerden ibaret, degiskenler, basilan havanin sicakligi, donen lastikler….(Ekli reimde olan tabiki super, hic kullanilmamis bir olcek, birde en az 15 yildir kullnimda olan, hertarafi cizik ezik icinde olanini dusunun….)
Tek dogru yok. Hersey istatistiksel, cok bilgi, yoruma acik….tipki dogum surecinde yasadiklarimiz gibi degil mi? Annem bana hamile iken ne ultrasound, ne MR, ne amniyosentez, ne MR ne DNA’leri gorme ne de yorumlama sansi varmis. Anacigim sagolsun bizleri (agabeyimi de) evde deliver etmis, ebe esliginde, gerci ben biraz olu dogmusum sanirim, ancak sonrasinda yaptiklari soguk su-sicak su shock calismasi beni hayata dondurmus :). Simdi elimizde her turlu veri ve cihaz var, hepsini kullandigimizda elimizde bir dashboard’i dolduracak kadar veri olusuyor, ancak bilim halen 10% civarinda insan genome’unu cozdugunden herseye cevap veremiyor, ve sonrasinda tahmini hava doldurarak 32PSI’i yakalamaya calisiyorsunuz. Analoji oldu mu? Bence oldu, en azindan bunlari yasayan ve tecrube eden bir ana adayi degilim, ama baba adayiyim 🙂
Bugunun filmine gelince ise, yine eskilerden bir filmi tekrar izlemeye karar verdim. Yine favorilerimden bir baskasi: Trainspotting! Iyi bir kurgu, bazen uyusturucuyu ovuyor mu diye sormaktan kendimi alamadigim, komik ogelerin oldugu cok basarili bir film. Mutlaka izlenmesi gereken super bir film. Yine bir Izet-Movie. Kismetse bu film sonrasinda ClockWorkOrange, VelvetGoldMine’i izleyecegim, yine Izet;in hatirasina. Her ikisinide 30 yil evvel Izet ile beyoglunda bir ozel gosterimde izlemistim, Umuyorum bu film listesi sizleri sikmiyordur.
Mutlu, saglikli, sevdiklerimiz ile gecirecegimiz basarili, keyifli, huzurlu bir omur diliyorum herkese, Allah anamizi, babamizi, ailemizi ve sevdiklerimizi eksik etmesin basimizdan.
Garip bir film….Bruges-Belcika da geciyor. Yine Ingilizler var, hatta Irlandali. Konu garip, kurgu tamam, hatta komige yakin. Seyretmeye deger, zincire devam.
Disarda yogun kar yagiyor. Yakin konusurken, Ohio’da kislar nasil olur, insallah sert gecmiyordur diye sordugumuzda, Mehtap’in yok yoook istanbul ile ayni dedigini hatirliyorum. Su anda -5, disarda diz boyu kar var 🙂 haberlerde seyrettigimiz Amerikada siddetli kar firtinasi goruntuleri geliyor aklima. Hatta bugun haberlerde weatherforecast yapan amca, 5AM a kadar strong snow storm dedi 🙂 Neyse film guzel, seyretmeli, seyrettirilmeli 🙂 Saol Mehtap, iyiki urkutmedin bizin kizi, yoksa bizbiz eder gelemezdik buralara. Ben bu arada o gunden biliyordum Ohio’nun kislarinin, zamaninda Pittsburgh-Columbus’a araba ile gittigim zamandan. Zaten Canada sinirina da 5-6 mil uzakta olmasindan da boyle olacagi tahmin edilmez mi :)))))
Tekrar izledim….tamamiyla tesaduf, DVD secerken almistim….aldigim onca DVD icerisinden de tesadufen ilk sectigim oldu, izlemek icin!!
Unuttugum sahnelerin oldugunu gormek harika, iyi bir ses kalitesi ve goruntu ile, nefessiz izledim. Ne denir: Mutlaka izleyin!!! 10 uzerinden bence 10!!!
It was cold, and river is wide like Bosphorus, calm like a sand. We boarded one of the boat, it is pure aluminium boat, and was going really fast, approximately 30-40 knot.
Time to time, river is getting narrow, most of the time it is going very wide, rarely, boar is getting slower, then I realised that, captain was trying to see river banks, and routing boat to deep channels.
On the way, when I am looking river sides, only thing I was seeing is trees in different colours, green-red-brown-light green even blue leafs, endless riverside, and thousands or may be millions of trees. Some times, fallen trees lying down on the river, i could not stop myself to think about business opportunities or value of these threes, it was all waste for Russia. As I understand, there are millions trees were in there, and country was not seeing these resources more valuable than gas or petroleum business. Another think, I was thinking is cheap paints which almost all families hanged on their walls. In reality, cheap or not, does not matter. What i mean is paints like forest, river, mountains. And there is always red trees in these pains, and i was always thinking, what a silly-stupid thing to put red leafs on threes, supposed that there is no red leafs on trees!!!!
These trees were exist, and i saw it during my 8 hours boat trip 🙂 It is real!! Red leafs and 8 hours boat trip at 40knot speed to North, deeper Siberia.
On the way, we gave one stop, some kind of a civilisation, former Soviet forest ranger, now arranging tours for visitors. And there was a Shaman who met with Shatalov a year ago. Shatalov asked me to take the plastic bag out, then I understand why i carried this terrible thing all the way: gift to Shaman for getting his best wishes 🙂 After a short break, ate chicken and rice, then additional 4 hours, river-river-forest-forest, time to time, some other boats with native Siberians.
Then we arrived the base which is kind of a dock stating on the river, chained to some trees on riverside. One big gathering room, like diner, and small rooms (5-6) each for two, 3-4 native Siberian hosts, one dog and small power boats (8-9) for two fisherman :0
After 10 hours drive from Igrim, one of the native said that in all directions, 400KM, there is no civilisation means village.
It was completely tundra-steps or Siberian forest. Wild animals were Bears and Wolves.Getting in to forest from the riverside was forbidden and dangerous during the day, during the night, staying on the riverside was not allowed. No cellular, only Iridium was working during certain hours accordingly the position of the satellite (21:00-23:15). After the meal, immediately went in to bed and had amazing sleep.
One remarkable thing was sleeps, nights and early bird wake ups. It must be related to environment, clean-fresh air and all day activity. Breakfast is smoked fish, for sure you can find something Russian, but i preferred to adapt Smoked Fish which was healthy, delicious. Another thing is carrying knife all the time, and use it for everything.
Fishing is another experience. Every morning and every afternoon, with your buddy, toking one of the boat and going up or down the rive, and trying to find spots for fishing. You must not stay too close to riverside, bears can jump more than 4-5 metres :), and depend on the place, you are changing your fishing methodology. If the place is somewhere bay, must encourage fishes staying at the bottom to attack your hook.Approach must be top-down like your hook is moving like a wounded fish. If the place is open for river stream, you must throw your hook and pull in your hook every 5-6 metres then let it drawn. Targeted fish is aggressive Pike.
Normally Pike is carnivore and taking it up is really challenging. And Pearch is omnivour and it is more easy to hunt.
Btw, only Pearch can be served as smoked. According to natives, smoked fish is not cooking, and all worms and other parasites cannot die under these process because of no real fire. Preach is the only fish has no worm and parasites then it is safe to eat after smoked. Small note, there is stove kind of thing, Natives are using for smoke.
There is a grill where they are putting fishes on and putting this grill on the highest level in stove, and there are special woods (kind of a sponge) are in fire (not a real fire, it is something burning inside, just smoke and very manageable heat is coming out. After applying these to fishes 4-5 hours, then your fishes will be ready for keeping them for long days and weeks. Natives, while they are travelling, getting 4-5 smoked fishes wrapped by newspaper and put it in to their backpacks, like we are having snacks, biscuits or sandwiches.
Coming back to the story: every morning and afternoon, spending 4-5 hours for fishing. When you brought all fishes that you caught on day 1, guys are warning you not to bring them, because their reserves are full, and there is no space to put these new ones. Then upcoming days, what you are doing is catching fish, get the picture of it after weighing it and announcing these info to others teams thru radio and release the fish. if fish is Pearch or Pike, this is what your are doing. Only one fish is very valuable, can eat even raw. People are pointing this fish must be kept, going well with vodka: Russian Sushi.
There was a lake, natives were offering to us for fishing, just 500mt away from the riverside, was another action. Once we say ok, two natives with two rifles each, took us there. When we asked why they are carrying gun, killing bear or Wolf. They just replied, no these were for just creating noise to make Bear or Wolf scared. In case they shoot to bear and not killed successfully, then it would be the nightmare for all of us, more dangerous. Notes from the lake looks like a lake in Central Park. Environment, grass, trees and everything looks like an designer made it, and people working for municipality put them all accordingly.
But interesting, we were in neither London HydePark nor Central Park in NewYork. We ere far away, in the middle of Siberia and view were amazing.
Long story makes it short, difficult to write all details, notes, observations, but Siberia is still untouched, very far, very scary (no one speaks English), very rich. I am still thinking to re-experience it, go there and try more local things. I owe Shatalov for such experience, and suggesting all adventurers and fishermans to go there and try same.
